THE ROOF OF THE PERUVIAN ANDES NEVADO HUASCARÁN SOUTH 6768M
The Colossus of the Andes
Huascarán South mountain, known as Mataraju by the locals, is the highest peak in the Peruvian Andes, with an official altitude of 6,757 masl according to the latest 2017 measurement. It is the most requested peak by mountaineers worldwide, being the third highest in America.
To climb this mountain, solid technical climbing experience and rigorous acclimatization are required. Our UIAGM technical command ensures maximum safety on this high-level ascent.
Ascent Timeline
HUARAZ - MUSHO (3500M) - MORAINE CAMP (4800M)
Transfer from Huaraz to Musho. Zigzag ascent to the Moraine camp at 4800 masl. Enjoy a phenomenal sunset view over the Callejón de Huaylas villages.
MORAINE CAMP (4800M) - CAMP I (5450M)
Ascent from Moraine Camp to Camp I at 5450 masl. Cross the glacier to reach the campsite and witness the deep red sunset over the Cordillera.
CAMP I (5450M) - CAMP II (5980M)
Critical day to cross the "Canaleta," a technical and exposed section. Early departure to reach Camp II at 5980 masl, featuring incredible views of the valley and Cordillera Negra.
CAMP II (5980M) - HUASCARÁN SUMMIT (6768M)
Summit push to Huascarán South (6768m) via the normal route. Navigate through crevices and ice cornices to reach the roof of Peru. Return to Camp II to recover.
CAMP II (5980M) - MORAINE CAMP (4800M)
Early descent to safely cross the Canaleta once more. Continue down to the moraine camp for our final night on the mountain.
MORAINE CAMP (4800M) - MUSHO - HUARAZ
Final descent to Musho, where our transport waits for the triumphant return to Huaraz city.
Expedition Gallery
